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Journey Through the Clouds: An Unforgettable Adventure on the Rocky Mountaineer

by Ian Collier

Vancouver

I’ve just ticked off a lifelong dream with my first visit to British Columbia. A while back, I had the choice to move to either New Zealand or Vancouver and went with NZ, so this trip was a chance to see what I missed! Biking around Stanley Park and along the seawall to Granville Island, I can see why everyone loves Vancouver. It’s a stunning city designed for outdoor living, especially for cyclists, thanks to the wide, bright green bike lanes. Compared to my last big North American city experience—New York—it feels so peaceful and relaxed. Vancouver really embodies that “Pacific” vibe!

Rocky Mountaineer – Journey through the Clouds

In a world where travel often feels like a chore, luxury train journeys bring back the joy of the experience itself. I’m on Rocky Mountaineer’s two-day ‘Journey Through The Clouds,’ covering 900km from Vancouver to Jasper. There’s no hassle—no shoe removals or security checks. I arrived at the station just half an hour before departure, waved off by friendly staff, and my luggage magically appeared at my hotel in Kamloops. It felt like the glamorous travel of the past!

Without Wi-Fi and very little phone signal, it’s refreshing to see everyone chatting or gazing out of the big dome windows instead of staring at screens. I’d recommend the Gold Leaf service for the best views from the double-decker carriages.

Food is a big part of this journey too. In the Silver Leaf carriages, we’re served breakfast, lunch, snacks, and drinks at our seats, while Gold Leaf passengers dine in a special carriage. They take pride in using local organic ingredients—think salmon and fine wines from British Columbia. The scenery? Absolutely breathtaking—like New Zealand on a grander scale! We pass through gentle farmland, ranches, and striking canyons with rushing rapids.

The train follows the historic Canadian Pacific railway line, completed in 1885. It’s incredible to see such a long freight train on the opposite track. As we enjoy our lunch, the staff clear away dishes, and travel stories flow, with the occasional shout of “bear!” when a grizzly is spotted.

Despite feeling jetlagged, we quickly relaxed into the journey. Unplugging from our devices lets us truly enjoy the experience and reflect on it later.

Kudos to Rocky Mountaineer for helping us disconnect and unwind.

Kamloops

Kamloops is a vibrant town, known as Canada’s tournament capital. We enjoyed some great craft beers and the local favourite, poutine—chips, gravy, and cheese—a hearty meal! Unlike other luxury train journeys, we spend the night in a comfy hotel. The next morning, getting back on the train is a breeze. Our driver jokingly apologises for dropping us off so close to our carriage!

Jasper & The Icefields Parkway to Lake Louise

The second leg of the journey from Kamloops to Jasper is just as stunning, if not more so. The Jasper Skytram takes us high above the town, offering spectacular views. I realised I need more time to explore this beautiful little town, which has plenty of walking and cycling trails—just be sure to make noise to keep the wildlife at bay!

People often ask why I’d choose the Rockies over the stunning landscapes in NZ, and my answer is the Icefields Parkway. This road, also known as Highway 93 North, is a feast for the eyes, with turquoise lakes, waterfalls, and ancient glaciers. We often see wildlife like bighorn sheep and bears.

Lake Louise is a highlight, especially as we arrived just before the lake fully thawed. From the Chateau, one side is still frozen, while the other shines a brilliant blue. The iconic Chateau Lake Louise is worth a visit for its high tea and amazing views. Even if you’re not staying there, the walking trails around the lake are a must. If you’re up for it, the Plain of Six Glaciers trail offers fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.

Banff

The drive from Lake Louise to Banff is quick and beautiful. I recommend taking the Bow Valley Parkway to see Johnston Canyon, which has an amazing walkway around its cliffs. Banff is livelier than Jasper, and I took the Banff Gondola up Sulphur Mountain for breathtaking views over the national park.

 

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