Pedals and Perspectives: Cycling through Former Soviet Lands
Growing up in the UK during the 70s and early 80s meant living with the backdrop of the Cold War and the Iron Curtain, which divided East and West Europe. Evenings were spent glued to the family wireless, listening to European football matches involving teams like Partizan Belgrade and Torpedo Moscow. I’d hear stories of fans needing haircuts just to cross borders (a big sacrifice back then) and the names of leaders like Erich Honecker, Nicolai Chauchescu, and even King Zog of Albania fascinated me. These tales ignited a deep curiosity about the former Soviet states.
My first foray into this world was in 1987, stopping in Belgrade on my way from Athens to Munich. Little did I know, just two years later, the Berlin Wall would fall, altering the region forever. Over the next three decades, I journeyed through many former Soviet republics. Recently, I embarked on a trip to Albania, the land of King Zog, and Macedonia. Times have changed – no more mandatory haircuts, but new challenges awaited.
Due to scheduling, I joined an Exodus small-group tour, but not just any tour – a challenging grade 5 cycling adventure. The catch? I hadn’t ridden a bike in over two decades. Could I handle it? Late nights on an exercise bike with the heat cranked up were my crash course. Follow along to see how wrong my assumptions might prove to be!
Day 1: Started with a smooth flight to Tirana, breezing through immigration. Spotting fellow cyclists from Gatwick, we headed to Skhoder in Northern Albania, visiting the castle and exploring the old town before an early night – alarm set for 0545.
Our eclectic group included couples, friends, and solo travellers – no electric bikes in sight, but plenty of eager cyclists. The road was tough, especially with serious cyclists dominating the pack. After a gruelling start, I found my rhythm, bracing for a longer ride the next day.
Day 2: After a stormy night, an early rise to beat the day’s heat was needed. A series of challenging climbs under the scorching sun and headwinds tested my resolve, but pushing through became a personal triumph. Tomorrow promised even tougher terrain.
Day 3: An 81km journey through Albania’s wilds showcased stunning scenery and local celebrations over a football win. Despite fatigue, witnessing community spirit in Kukas was uplifting.
Day 4: I felt every muscle ache after cycling 75km with punishing climbs. Passing through agricultural landscapes, I marvelled at families toiling manually, amidst breathtaking vistas.
Day 5: A “relaxing” 93km ride to Macedonia proved challenging, with border crossings and weather changes. Ohrid greeted us with rain, yet its charm shone through our guided tour.
Day 6: Featured a shorter route but a formidable 13km climb in rain and mist, testing our endurance. The descent to Stenje rewarded us with a lakeside haven, albeit soggy.
Day 7: Our last leg. It involved 75km back to Albania amid headwinds and roadworks. Despite mud and fatigue, reaching our lakeside hotel marked the end of a 405km journey, filled with camaraderie and culinary delights.
Reflecting on this adventure, I realised my home workout routine wasn’t ideal prep, yet finishing filled me with pride. As fellow cyclists planned future rides, I contemplated retiring my gel seat cover and cycling shorts – a testament to a memorable, if challenging, journey.
Curated journeys to suit every style and every one.
We have the world at our fingertips, let’s go and explore it.