Travel Journal

Keflavik Airport in Iceland has really changed since I first went through it. It’s much bigger and more impressive now, probably because Iceland has become super popular with tourists. Iceland expected 2.5 million visitors in 2018, which is a lot for a country with a population similar to Christchurch. Reykjavik now has direct flights to 98 cities in the USA and Europe. That’s quite a leap!

Most visitors come in the summer, from June to August, when it’s warmer and there’s plenty of daylight – it’s called the ‘land of the midnight sun’ for a reason! Most people stay around the trendy capital city and the famous ‘Golden Circle’ in the Southern highlands, which includes Þingvellir National Park, the Gullfoss waterfall, and the geysers Geysir and Strokkur. I’d recommend spending a couple of days in Reykjavik to see these sights and maybe take a dip in the Blue Lagoon. But this time, we decided to explore much further!

Iceland’s popularity has grown thanks to its roles in movies and TV shows like Game of Thrones. Its scenery is out of this world, perfect for sci-fi movies. Iceland is unique, partly because of its isolation. Icelanders are rugged and straightforward, with a quirky sense of humour. Just listen to Bjork or Sigur Ros to get a sense of their uniqueness. Several years ago, activists protested a new road plan because it would disturb elves living in the rocks. Construction was stopped – you don’t mess with Icelandic elves! Trolls are also a big part of Icelandic folklore, and though we didn’t see any, we heard many tales about them.

Iceland can be expensive. It became slightly more affordable after the global financial crisis but is now one of the world’s priciest destinations again. There aren’t enough hotels, so prices stay high, and eating out can be costly. So, when we got the chance to go on a 10-day expedition cruise around the island with all meals included, we jumped at it!

We sailed in late May, which is technically spring, though it felt like winter this far north. We missed the springtime bloom and the peak whale-watching season in Husavik, but travelling in May meant we avoided the summer crowds. In most small port towns we visited, we were the only tourist ship docked, giving us a real ‘locals’ experience. However, shore excursions by coach are essential to see the nearby highlights, costing around $1000 per person in addition to the cruise fare.

We were aboard the 199-passenger Ocean Diamond with Iceland Pro Cruises. The ship is older but very comfortable, with well-appointed cabins, cosy public areas, and a cheerful staff. The expedition team, including Sturlaugur, Hermann, and Jens, was excellent, and we travelled with mostly American and German guests. A special treat was having Arndis, a well-known Icelandic opera singer, serenade us in the evenings. The port talks were informative and entertaining, covering Icelandic history, language, and wildlife. The food was excellent and plentiful, and the bar prices were very reasonable. Our cruise took us around Iceland in an anti-clockwise direction, starting and finishing in Reykjavik’s Old Harbour.

There were many scenic highlights on our voyage. Our first stop was Stykkisholmur, where we visited the Snaefellsjokull glacier atop a 700,000-year-old dormant volcano, featured in Jules Verne’s Journey to the Center of the Earth. Our snowcat driver took us on a wild ride up the glacier to the summit, offering incredible views over the Snaefellsnes Peninsula.

In Isafjördur, we experienced the remote Westfjords region, with its dramatic fjords and pristine North Atlantic vegetation. This secluded peninsula is connected to the mainland by only a narrow strip of land and includes many roadless areas. It was one of the scenic highlights of our voyage.

Siglufjordur, once the hub of the global herring industry, is home to the impressive Herring Era Museum. We also visited Grimsey Island, 40 km off the mainland, which sits right on the Arctic Circle. Crossing the Circle was exciting, and we received a certificate to prove it! Our zodiac ride ashore was memorable, as we saw hundreds of puffins and many other seabirds.

Akureyri and the Lake Myvatn region are known for their rugged volcanic landscapes. This area has hot springs, fumaroles, and mud pools, similar to Rotorua but on a bigger scale. It’s also where the tectonic plates of North America and Europe meet. We enjoyed a soak in a large natural hot spring before a dozen coachloads of cruise passengers arrived. The Ocean Diamond was docked alongside the giant MSC Meraviglia in Akureyri port, and we appreciated the benefits of small-scale tourism.

In Seydisfjördur, we enjoyed hiking among stunning waterfalls. Djupivogur, a fishing village in southeast Iceland, was the jumping-off point for an excursion to the amazing glacier lagoon, where huge icebergs float in a 250-meter-deep lagoon. The bus trip was long, but the chance to see the icebergs up close was worth it.

The Westman Islands, formed by volcanic eruptions around 10,000 years ago, were another highlight. I even played golf inside a volcano there – one of the most picturesque courses I’ve ever seen, though my performance was a bit off!

I’d recommend this voyage as an alternative to a self-drive or coach tour of Iceland. The majority of your costs are upfront, so you can budget accordingly, and you’ll visit remarkable, isolated parts of this quirky, intriguing island away from the crowds. Iceland is utterly unique, and this is a great way to enjoy it!