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Journey through Jordan: From Ancient Ruins to Desert Dreams

by Ian Collier

Shalom from Tel Aviv! Relaxing at the Hilton, looking out over the beaches, though it felt a cool 31°C compared to previous days scorching 41°C at the Dead Sea in Jordan (my phone insisted it felt more like 46°C!).

Jordan was amazing. In just 6 days, we covered a lot, from Jerash in the North to Wadi Rum in the South, driving on some pretty average roads and navigating local driving that was, well, interesting, though not quite as epic as Pete’s tales in Turkey!

The flight from Tel Aviv to Amman was probably the shortest I’ve ever taken, just 23 minutes in the air with 20 minutes of taxiing at each end. Jordan Circle Tours met us promptly, whisking us through customs to meet Elias, our driver, and Osama, our guide. They were absolutely top-notch.

Osama was a standout guide – funny, knowledgeable, and really brought Jordan’s ancient history and modern culture alive for us. I came away with a newfound appreciation for this region, from ancient ruins to modern-day Jordanian life and Arabic culture. His insights into Islam and local societies were eye-opening. It definitely paid off to have such a great guide on a private tour like this.

Our first day was packed – Amman’s Roman theatre and citadel, followed by the impressive Roman city of Jerash. We then checked into the charming House Boutique Suites for an Arabic cooking class. Run by three Jordanian sisters and staffed by lively women, it was a fun evening of making Kofta and Hummus, and surprisingly, my cooking didn’t need rescuing this time!

Next, we visited King Hussein’s car collection near Amman – a paradise for car enthusiasts, with highlights like an armoured Rolls Royce and an Aston Martin DB2. They even had the Martian Rover from that Matt Damon movie shot in Wadi Rum, which seems to be a hotspot for otherworldly film sets lately! Heading south, we stopped at Madaba to see the famous mosaic map of the Holy Land, then Mt Nebo for breathtaking views and the Crusader castle at Kerak. Petra awaited us late that day, and after surviving the chaotic drive, we settled into the well-located Movenpick hotel, right by Petra’s entrance.

Petra blew us away – it’s massive! We walked over 22km exploring this ancient city from morning till late afternoon. Beyond the iconic Treasury, every corner revealed more stunning ruins. A guide is a must to understand how the Nabateans lived over 2000 years ago. We even hiked up to the impressive monastery, which was tough in the midday heat but worth it. By Night, it was an interesting experience, though navigating by candlelight to the Treasury was a bit tricky – definitely not for the unsteady! The show itself was average, with traditional music and a ghost story that lost some of us along the way. Despite the distractions, seeing the Treasury lit up in colours was a highlight.

Wadi Rum was a dream come true for me, especially as a Lawrence of Arabia fan. We stayed in a Martian Dome at Sun City Camp, blending in with the red sand and enjoying a sunset camel ride before a ‘hangi’ style dinner. Stargazing in the desert was unforgettable.

Our final day at the Kempinski Ishtar by the Dead Sea was pure luxury. As the Dead Sea shrinks, the resort compensates with pools and terraces, perfect for mud baths and floating. Despite the stinging salt water mishap, my skin felt amazing afterwards.

Leaving Jordan via the King Hussein Bridge was smooth thanks to a VIP service, skipping long queues and checkpoints.

Jordan isn’t cheap, but the experience was worth every dinar. It’s a stable and welcoming country, rich in history and hospitality. The challenges, like water scarcity, are evident, but so is Jordan’s resilience and prosperity amid regional turmoil.

Jordan left a lasting impression – a moderate, welcoming Muslim country that feels safe and accessible. In just 6 days, we saw so much, yet it felt like there’s still so much more to explore!

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