Travel Journal

Standing with one foot in the Southern Hemisphere and the other in the Northern Hemisphere, I thought I was at the centre of the world. However, GPS technology informed me that the true Equator was about 240 metres away. Museum lovers will enjoy the fascinating exhibits related to the powers of the Equator. 

I went on an 8-day Ecuador Discovered” tour, which took me to the colonial town of Quito, the Andes, and the lush jungles of the Amazon Basin. It was just a taste of Ecuador, but after visiting Peru, Brazil, and much of Southern South America, this trip was long overdue.

We began our tour in Quito, Ecuador’s capital, perched at 2850 metres above sea level. It’s not a place to rush around when you first arrive! Officially known as San Francisco de Quito, it sits in a valley between the western and eastern Andes, on the slopes of the Pichincha Volcano, which last erupted in 1999, covering the capital in ash.

Quito boasts a large old town filled with beautiful colonial architecture, thanks to the Spanish, and numerous stunning churches and monasteries. If you visit only one, make it La Compañía de Jesús, a Jesuit church with an absolutely stunning gilded interior. Around Plaza Grande, you’ll find the President’s residence, the cathedral, and the Independence Monument. The cathedral features intriguing paintings, including one of the Last Supper where the apostles feast on guinea pigs, and a nativity scene with a llama peering over the crib.

Ecuador’s Mitad del Mundo, meaning “middle of the world,” is about 16 km outside Quito. In 1736, Charles-Marie de La Condamine measured this as the Equatorial line, and a 30-metre-high stone monument topped with a brass globe commemorates this spot. It’s a popular photo op with one foot in each hemisphere. However, GPS has since revealed the true Equator is actually 240 metres away, where you’ll find the Museo Solar Inti Nan. This museum features a fantastic Solar Chronometer and various exhibits and hands-on attractions about the Equator’s unique powers. It’s a fascinating place that seems to attract the geeky crowd.

After Quito, our next stop was the Cotococha Jungle Lodge, where we stayed for two nights, took jungle walks, visited a local Indian community, and an animal sanctuary. We saw the beautiful “El Pailon del Diablo” waterfalls and explored the lovely Andean mountain village of Baños, famous for its hot springs.

Returning to Quito, we travelled along the ‘Avenue of Volcanoes’ and reached the magnificent Cotopaxi Volcano. We climbed to the refuge for stunning views. For the more adventurous, you can arrange to climb Cotopaxi (5900 metres) with a guide. This involves a 4WD drive up the volcano’s slopes, starting the climb at midnight, reaching the summit around 6-7 am for sunrise, and descending by 11 am. You’ll need a couple of nights beforehand to acclimatise.

Our adventure ended with a flight from Quito to Buenos Aires, one of my favourite cities, where I indulged in steak and antique shopping in San Telmo – an expensive habit that has become an annual event.