Travel Journal

With a quick 3-hour direct flight from Auckland and just a 1-hour time difference, Samoa turned out to be a fantastic holiday spot for our family, including our kids aged 8 and 10. We spent 12 days exploring Apia, Lalomanu Beach on Upolu’s northern coast, and a few days on the larger, quieter island of Savai’i.

When we arrived in Apia, we found ourselves about 45 minutes from the city centre. The city is compact, with food and goods markets and some interesting buildings to explore. One highlight was Robert Louis Stevenson’s house and gardens, Villa Vailima, situated on a hill above the city. It’s a beautiful spot and well worth a visit. We also enjoyed a local fire dancing show with dinner and spent time at the Samoan Cultural Village. Another fun spot was the Papase’ea Sliding Rocks, a short 10-minute drive from Apia. These fresh waterfalls flow over smooth rocks you can slide down—perfect for cooling off and having fun.

Apia has some great local restaurants. We found a fantastic Chinese restaurant we wouldn’t have noticed without a recommendation. One thing that stands out quickly in Samoa is the number of churches. Christianity is a big part of life here, especially on Sundays. If you’re not staying at a resort, plan for a quiet Sunday, as most shops and cafes are closed until at least mid-afternoon. If you explore outside the resort, dress conservatively out of respect—think t-shirts and longer shorts or skirts. For attending a local church service, ensure your shoulders and knees are covered.

From Apia, we drove northeast to Lalomanu, which is often considered the best beach on Upolu. It’s about a 1.5 to 2-hour drive—welcome to island time! Driving here is easy but slow, and if you’re venturing out after heavy rain, a sturdy vehicle is helpful. We had a Toyota Hilux, which handled the roads well. If you prefer not to drive, resorts can organize transfers or taxis for you. The drive to Lalomanu offers scenic stops at waterfalls and coastal walks, and you can detour to visit the To Sua Ocean Trench.

Lalomanu Beach has reefs a good distance off the shore, making the water calm and safe for swimming. Our kids spent most of their time in the water, which was wonderfully warm. We stayed at Taufua Beach Fales, a 2-3 star property with simple beachside fales and air-conditioned units just across the road. The included breakfast and dinner were excellent, and we never went hungry.

After Lalomanu, we returned to Apia to visit family before heading to Savai’i. The ferry terminal is about 10 minutes past the airport. Ferries run hourly and take an hour, with a slightly reduced schedule on Sundays. If you’re bringing a car, you’ll need to pre-book, but foot passengers can buy tickets an hour before departure. We took our car and drove about 40 minutes to our next stop, Savai’i Lagoon Resort on the northeastern side of the island. Savai’i is even quieter than Upolu, with lush greenery and bright flowers lining the roads.

Savai’i Lagoon Resort, a tidy 3-star property with air conditioning, shares a beautiful beach with Le Lagoto, the island’s only 4-star resort. Both have excellent restaurants. The beach was calm, safe, and peaceful, with a coral reef just offshore. We spotted a turtle and plenty of fish while snorkelling. The resort offers free kayaks, and a nearby shop sells snorkel sets. We spent our days relaxing but also drove around the island, exploring lava fields, cocoa plantations, and surf spots on the western side.

We ended our trip with a couple more nights in Apia before flying home. The weather in July was hot and sunny, with temperatures around 30°C during the day and mid-20s at night. We encountered a few cash-only situations, so it’s good to have cash on hand, as ATMs are mostly found at the airport and in Apia.

Samoa is an authentic South Pacific destination that isn’t too busy or touristy. We wouldn’t hesitate to visit again for a winter break. It’s breathtakingly beautiful and perfect for a family getaway.