Travel Journal

I had the chance to visit both the Argentine and Brazilian sides of Iguassu Falls in June, and I can highly recommend it. Iguazu means ‘big waters’ in the local Guarani language, which is quite fitting! The Falls consist of hundreds of separate waterfalls, varying from 270 in wet months to at least 150 on dry days. This makes them quite different from the “big drops” of Victoria or Niagara Falls.

The Falls straddle the border between Misiones Province in Argentina and Parana State in Brazil, with the Tancred Neves Bridge over the Iguazu River linking the customs posts on either side. The two countries formed National Parks here in the 1930s, and it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in the 1980s. The bridge rails are painted blue and white on the Argentine side and yellow and green on the Brazilian side.

There are only two hotels within the Park, both 5-star and offering great views of the Falls. These are the impressive and characterful (pink!) Das Cataratas Hotel in Brazil, and the Sheraton in Argentina. There are also plenty of cheaper options in the nearby city of Foz de Iguassu in Brazil and the smaller town of Puerto Iguazu in Argentina. There are airports on both sides, so you can fly in from Buenos Aires or Rio, or combine both cities with a visit to the Falls in the middle.

The water flow was at the highest ever recorded level just a week before I arrived – a staggering 47,000 cubic metres per second (it’s usually around 1,750). The National Park had been closed for a few days due to some damage to the boardwalks and viewing platforms. When we arrived on the Argentine side, the water level was still an amazing 12,000 cubic metres per second, and some trails and tours were temporarily closed.

Despite this, I really enjoyed seeing the coatis and monkeys along the Green Trail through the forest to the Falls. The views from the Lower Circuit were great too. When water levels are lower, you can access San Martin Island from here. The Argentine side allows visitors to get very close to the Falls. The boardwalks have several sets of stairs between Upper and Lower Trails, and you’ll get soaking wet in places, especially if you take the ‘Great Adventure’ boat trip up to the base of the Falls on the lower Iguazu River. This was great fun and highly recommended!

On the Brazilian side, there’s also the remarkable Bird Park, one of the best places in South America to walk among toucans, parrots, and macaws. The Bird Park opens at 8:30 am, so I’d recommend getting there early while it’s quiet and then visiting the Falls afterwards. Allow at least two hours to enjoy this magical place.

The Brazilian side has even more of a ‘wow’ factor since you are elevated, and it’s an easy walk along the boardwalks of the Cataratas trail. There are many panoramic balconies, with views that keep getting better until you reach the 27m high Naipi Spot elevator at the end of the boardwalk. Here, you can brave the amazing Devil’s Throat Balcony – you are literally standing in the middle of the Falls, in front of the biggest waterfall in the Park, 90m high. This was simply breathtaking and a ‘must do’ – the sheer volume of water we witnessed was incredible.

I’d highly recommend that anyone exploring South America should try to make it to Iguassu Falls – it’s really that good. Try to give yourself two full days so you can visit both sides.