Travel Journal

I once read that Armenia has the largest diaspora in the world, which got me wondering: were they just great travellers, or was Armenia not that appealing? Recently, I got to explore the answers on a G-Adventures small group tour through Georgia and Armenia.

Our journey began in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia. The first few days were all about churches, temples, and religion. We visited the stunning Roman Temple of Garni, the Geghard Monastery carved into a mountainside, and Echmiadzin, the ancient capital and centre of the Armenian Orthodox Church. I even had the incredible experience of being blessed by the Armenian Pope! We also stopped by Khor Virap Monastery, which offers amazing views of Mt. Ararat, a national symbol for Armenians. Sadly, Ararat is no longer part of Armenia; it was given to Turkey back in 1921. This is a sensitive topic for Armenians, especially given the tragic history of the 1915-1919 Genocide, well documented at the Yerevan Museum. Because of this, the border with Turkey remains closed.

Every afternoon, we returned to Yerevan, which had a distinct Soviet vibe. It reminded me of Budapest, with its six-story tenements, sturdy stone buildings, trolleybuses, and vintage Ladas. The city has plenty of green spaces and is filled with bars and cafes, making it a lovely, affordable place to eat out.

On the fourth day, we made our way to Georgia, stopping by Lake Sevan, the largest lake in the Caucasus, before heading to Tbilisi. We enjoyed a fascinating four-hour walking tour of Tbilisi’s old town, exploring Roman ruins, ancient bathhouses, Georgian Orthodox churches, and the Museum of the Soviet Occupation. This museum felt particularly relevant, given today’s political climate regarding Russia.

The Soviet theme continued with a trip to Gori, the birthplace of Joseph Stalin. Visiting his house-museum was a highlight for me. The building, resembling a Moorish palace, was started before his death, but inside, it screams Soviet-era. The guides hurried us through with their rehearsed monologues, sticking to the old Soviet style, which oddly suited the place. Gori still celebrates Stalin’s birthday, and while the younger crowd tends to ignore it, the older generation remains proud of their local boy who became one of the world’s most powerful figures.

From Gori, we returned to Tbilisi, which has a charming old town and more modern Parisian-style areas. That night, I convinced a few travel mates to join me at a U19 Rugby World Cup match between New Zealand and France, and we had a blast, thanks in part to the friendly locals.

The next day, we headed to a ski resort and then visited the Sameba Church near the Russian-Chechen border, where we soaked in the breathtaking views of Mt. Kazbek, standing at 5,033 metres.

We then explored the Georgian wine region for two days, visiting vineyards with wine cellars that also served as bomb shelters, the 11th-century Alaverdi Monastery, and the ancient cave town of Uplistsikhe, settled around 1000 BC.

Finally, we returned to Tbilisi for a farewell dinner at one of the many restaurants serving hearty Georgian dishes. As we parted ways, I reflected on how excellent the tour had been. As a fan of 20th-century history, I was fascinated by everything I learned, especially the religious history reaching back to the time of the Apostles, right up to Pope Francis’s visit to Armenia. There was so much to see and do, and I truly felt blessed by the end of the trip!