Travel Journal

Japan is really popular right now! My last visit was in April 2019 when I walked the Nakasendo Trail, so I was excited to spend a week there with my family before Christmas. We flew with Air New Zealand, and on our approach to Narita, we got great views of Mt Fuji. We then took the train to our accommodation near Shiba Park in Minato City.

We stayed in Tokyo for six nights, trying to see and do as much as possible. December weather in Tokyo is cool to cold but dry and clear, which was perfect for exploring.

Japan offers great value for Kiwi travellers, with the NZD buying 90 Yen currently, making eating and drinking out comparable to being at home. We bought 72-hour (1500 yen) and 48-hour (1200 yen) Tokyo Metro passes, which we used a lot. It’s helpful to have Google or Apple Maps on your phone because navigating Tokyo often involves multiple levels—where you’re heading might be above or below you! We walked a lot, averaging over 15,000 steps per day, so comfortable shoes are a must. The Metro map looks confusing at first, with its multi-coloured lines, but you get used to it quickly. Signage is excellent, and since Tokyo has hosted many international events recently, all station signs are in English as well as Japanese. My teenage kids were confidently exploring the city via the Metro on their own by the end of our stay. It was surprising at first to see very young school children traveling independently, but it’s a normal and safe part of Japanese culture.

We did all the usual tourist activities, like visiting Tokyo Skytree, the famous shrines and temples of Asakusa, and seeing Christmas decorations in Roppongi. We also enjoyed the bright lights and world-class shopping in Ginza, Shibuya, and Shinjuku. The Shibuya Scramble Crossing at night was amazing, and we loved the lively atmosphere in Shimbashi and the youth and tech culture in Harajuku and Akihabara. The food in Tokyo was incredible—sashimi, ramen, yakitori, sushi, teppanyaki—everything was delicious. It’s best to book ahead, as many local eateries are tiny. Convenience stores like Lawson, Family Mart, and 7-Eleven are everywhere and offer great snacks.

We also tried some fun activities, like ‘Street Kart,’ where you dress up as cartoon or anime characters and drive a go-kart through Tokyo’s streets. It sounds crazy, but it was a blast. We had our passports, International Driving permits, and NZ licenses and started from Akihabara. We travelled in groups of six with a guide, and racing through Ginza was a highlight of the trip.

Another highlight was a cycling and foodie tour of West Tokyo with a local guide. We met our guide Andy at Koenji station and biked around narrow laneways in a local part of the city, learning about daily life and trying delicious ramen and other local dishes. Andy was a fantastic guide, offering insights into Japanese culture that are often hard to grasp for Westerners. I had never seen an indoor bike park the size of a car park before, but Nakano had several!

Another must-do is Team Lab Planets, an immersive art museum in Tokyo Bay. To get there, we took the new Yurikamome Line, a monorail with great views of the Rainbow Bridge. The museum is a unique experience where you wade through water and interact with digital art.

Leaving Tokyo, we took the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Nagano, a journey of 1 hour and 28 minutes at 260 km/h. We didn’t opt for a JR Railpass this time as we only took one Shinkansen trip, but it’s a good option if you’re traveling extensively by rail. From Nagano, we took a slower train to Yudanaka and then a bus to our traditional ryokan in Yamanouchi. The ryokan had nine private onsens, and the hosts were lovely. The traditional breakfasts and dinners were fabulous. Staying in a ryokan, wearing a yukata, and sleeping on futons was a wonderful experience, and we saw many guests strolling around the village in yukata for a soak in the public onsens.

We visited the famous snow monkey park at Jigokudani, where we saw monkeys bathing in hot pools with snow falling around us. It’s a popular spot, but the monkeys were unfazed by visitors and got very close. Seeing mothers with newborn babies was very special.

A bit further up the mountain is Shigakogen, one of Japan’s oldest and largest ski fields. Only three of the 18 mountains were open, but there was enough snow for some good skiing. Lift passes and gear hire were reasonably priced and easy to arrange.

This was my third trip to Japan, and I’d go back every year if I could. The contrast between traditional Japanese culture and the vibrant youth culture is fascinating. The people are incredibly polite and friendly, it’s one of the safest countries in the world, there’s a wide range of fun experiences, and the food is amazing.