Travel Journal

As a keen swimmer, the idea of spending a week on a bike was always going to be more appealing if it meant being close to water. Lake Constance, nestled at the borders of Switzerland, Germany, and Austria, turned out to be the perfect spot for my first cycling holiday.

My mum and I decided on a seven-day self-guided cycling trip, which included five days of cycling, covering 30-55km each day. We began and ended our journey in the charming town of Konstanz, located in Germany but right on the Swiss border.

Konstanz is easily accessible by train and is a small, mostly pedestrianised town, making it ideal for exploring on foot.

We arrived on a gorgeous summer day and decided to walk the 3km along the lake to pick up our bikes. We stumbled upon one of Europe’s largest flea markets, which stretches out for kilometres along the shores of Lake Constance. It was a fantastic start to the trip, especially since we didn’t have to carry our own luggage!

At the bike warehouse, we met a very helpful German man who made sure our bikes were perfectly adjusted for us. With our bikes, panniers, and locks ready, we cycled back along the lake to our hotel.

On day two, after a delicious breakfast, we set off on our first cycling adventure. With excellent maps and route guides, we headed towards Reichenau, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its early medieval monastic architecture. From Reichenau, we took a boat trip across to Gaienhofen. The boats are well-equipped to take both bikes and riders, with the front of the boat reserved for bikes.

Once in Gaienhofen, we spent the afternoon relaxing and swimming by the lake. The best swimming spots along the lakefront are usually set up like swimming pool facilities, with a small entrance fee, landscaped grounds, a café, and excellent change/shower facilities.

On day three, we cycled to Stein am Rhein in Switzerland. This town was possibly the prettiest we visited, with beautifully preserved architecture. We enjoyed our morning coffee break here with fresh pastries. After exploring Stein am Rhein, we followed the shoreline back to Konstanz, where we crossed the lake by ferry to Überlingen. Here, we discovered our favourite café, a German chain called Aran, which we also found in Friedrichshafen and back in Konstanz at the end of our trip. With excellent coffee, fresh bread, and other delicacies, it became our go-to spot. That morning, there was a farmers’ market in Überlingen, so we picked up fresh fruit for the day.

Day four was full of architectural delights. We stopped at the Baroque Church in Birnau and then headed to Schloss Salem. Founded as a Cistercian monastery in 1134, Schloss Salem is an immense estate with gardens, a hedge maze, and extravagant rococo apartments. From here, we cycled to Friedrichshafen, known for its Zeppelin museum and the Zeppelin often seen in the air above the town.

On day five, we enjoyed a restful night’s sleep in our small family-run hotel before setting off towards Lindau, a town on a tiny island connected to the mainland. Mostly pedestrianised with lakefront cafes and shops, it was a beautiful place to explore on foot. Later, we crossed into Austria and reached the lakefront town of Bregenz. That day, there was a flower market, and we learned that every summer, Bregenz holds a month-long festival with a main stage set on the lake.

Day six took us through the Rhine Delta and back into Switzerland for our last night before returning to Konstanz. After an afternoon swim, we bought some local delicacies from the supermarket and sat by the lake, watching the sun go down.

On our last day of cycling, we rode through the Swiss canton of Thurgau and returned to Konstanz. Back at our starting hotel, we left our bikes for collection by the bike company the next morning. With an excellent range of local cafes and restaurants, we enjoyed another delicious meal in Konstanz.

On our final day, we took a local bus to the island of Mainau, just 8km north of Konstanz. Mainau is a 45-hectare Mediterranean garden bursting with flowers and designed by the Bernadotte family, relatives of the Swedish royal family. With its stunning lake and mountain views, sequoia-shaded avenues, and hothouses brimming with palms and orchids, it was a picturesque end to our trip.

This cycling holiday taught me a lot:

• Starting and finishing at the same hotel was convenient, as we could leave excess luggage.
• Travelling with just a day pack was excellent, with our luggage moved from hotel to hotel.
• I was pleasantly surprised by how much free time we had to explore, relax, sunbathe, and swim in the lake.
• Cycling on dedicated cycle paths was safe, easy, and incredibly scenic.
• The maps, documentation, and hotel choices were fantastic, with great locations, breakfasts, and helpful staff.

It was a fabulous trip through central Europe, combining my love of swimming and new-found enjoyment of cycling.