Travel Journal

I once made the long, tiring journey from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam to Siem Reap in Cambodia by road – it was a long journey. So, when I got the chance to do it again by river, I jumped at it. Vietnam and Cambodia are amazing places, and this time, I’d be on a five-star river ship, which sounded very inviting.

Avalon’s ship for cruising the Mekong is the best on the river. It’s one of the smallest, with just 18 cabins spread over two decks, allowing us to dock right in the heart of HCMC. Other cruise ships have to embark about 1.5 hours downriver at My Tho.

On board, the atmosphere is friendly and relaxed. Most of the crew are Cambodian, with only the captain and a few others being Vietnamese. By the second day, they knew everyone’s names and provided attentive service with a great sense of humour. The dress code is casual, and with a mix of Kiwi, Aussie, and American passengers, it felt very informal and welcoming.

Everything is included in the cruise fare, except for top-shelf alcohol and souvenirs from shore excursions. You can prepay gratuities when booking or set aside around $120 USD per person for the week. The food is never ending and of the highest standard I’ve ever experienced on a cruise, with a mix of Asian and Western dishes at every meal. There’s also laundry, a spa, and a small fitness centre on board.

You only get one chance to leave the ship for a local dinner, and that’s in Phnom Penh. The ship is docked so centrally that you can easily walk to nearby restaurants, or there are always tuk-tuks and taxis available. I took this opportunity to join a Vespa Street Food Tour with a local guide and a few other passengers, which was a fantastic way to experience the local life, history, and cuisine. I highly recommend it!

Each day, we had one or two shore excursions lasting about 1.5 hours, except for the visits to the Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng Prison in Phnom Penh, which took four hours. The ship can moor right by the riverbank, so you just walk off or hop on a sampan boat. The excursions focus on the craft industries and lifestyles of the communities along the Mekong, as well as their beautiful Buddhist pagodas, temples, and monasteries. Remember to dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees for these visits.

I’d suggest cruising north for two reasons: the temples at Angkor in Siem Reap are the highlight and a lovely way to end the trip. Plus, the ship picks up supplies for the next leg of the journey in HCMC.

Timing is also key. During the dry season from April to August, the Tonle Sap Lake runs low. On the northbound route, this means returning to Phnom Penh for an overnight before flying to Siem Reap. My cruise was the first of the season that could cross the lake, and I’m so glad we didn’t miss it. It’s the largest freshwater lake in Asia, and to reach Siem Reap, we took a smaller sampan boat through the floating villages, which was quite the experience.

I was amazed by how much both countries have changed since my last visit. They’re modernising quickly, with trendy districts in cities like HCMC and Phnom Penh starting to look like anywhere else in the world. While foreign investment is improving infrastructure, it’s also raising the cost of travel here. So, if you’re thinking of visiting, it’s definitely worth going sooner rather than later!