Travel Journal

Arriving in Ushuaia with the excitement of boarding The Greg Mortimer Ship the next day, I could hardly contain my enthusiasm. With a morning to spare before meeting my fellow travellers, I decided to explore the area on foot. It didn’t take long to spot others who would be joining me on the ship—everyone was eager to catch a glimpse of the impressive Greg Mortimer in port!

After some free time, I headed back to the hotel to wait for the afternoon excursion. First, we visited the Ushuaia sign on an unusually warm day. The sun was shining, offering spectacular views of the city. Next, we toured the prison, which was filled with poignant and haunting memories of its former inmates. It was definitely worth the visit. From there, it was time to make our way to the ship. We couldn’t enter the port until 4 pm, but the moment finally arrived. Upon arrival, Howard and Scot greeted us, took our pictures, and welcomed us on board.

We were shown to our cabins before a busy evening of safety drills, welcome drinks, introductions, and the first of many meals in the restaurant. With a bit of free time before the official welcome meeting, I explored the ship. It struck me how beautifully luxurious and comfortable it was. The Greg Mortimer combined hard adventure with comfort and luxury. Not only was the ship visually spectacular, but it also had a minimal environmental impact. It featured an X-bow design for better fuel efficiency and a virtual anchor to avoid damaging the seabed. There was almost no plastic on board, with refillable mugs and water bottles provided along with our warm jackets. We used water stations scattered around the ship to fill up.

Day one departure was slightly delayed due to internet issues from the maiden voyage. With many Australians on board needing to contact home about bushfires, we voted to wait for a part to be delivered, which took about four hours. It was dark by the time we sailed through the Beagle Channel, but many adventures awaited us.

The first morning, I woke up to one of many breakfasts in the restaurant. The staff were exceptional—expedition leaders, doctors, waiters, and cleaners were all friendly and interesting. The restaurant staff knew your name early on, making you feel welcome, especially as a solo traveller. They helped ease the uncertainty of where to sit and who to sit with.

With a couple of days at sea, there were many lectures to enjoy, all delivered with fascination and enjoyment. During the first lecture from Ben, we were interrupted by our first iceberg sighting! This lone iceberg was a brilliant moment, comically acknowledged by Ben, who also introduced us to history exercise classes. We combined fitness with learning by running on the spot while Ben taught us about various historical pictures around the ship.

During our two days at sea, we also got kitted out for our kayaking adventures and met our instructors, Al and Frank. I was paired with Sean, a British tabloid journalist and novelist, for most of the trip. Our first kayaking outing turned from good to bad quickly, highlighting the harsh conditions we were in. A storm hit us hard with high winds, choppy waves, and hailstones. Despite the urgency to get back to the ship, we struggled. Eventually, we made it back, greeted like rock stars by our fellow passengers.

This outing was the toughest, according to Al, who had been doing this for 20 years. Safely aboard, this experience was unforgettable. The landings only got better, each unique in scenery, wildlife, and weather. My favourite time was when a few of us sat quietly with a couple of seals lounging in the snow.

As a solo traveller, I recommend signing up for activities like kayaking, skiing, mountaineering, and snowshoeing. Our little kayaking group became close, sharing unique experiences that helped form lasting friendships. Around day five or six, I was awestruck by the mountainous landscape and the stunning icebergs.

One memorable day, we kayaked around Hydrurga Rocks, witnessing two carvings right in front of us. We saw a large colony of Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins, and a couple of Weddell seals lazing in the sunshine. Later, at Portal Point, we celebrated our first Antarctic landing with a special Cointreau treat in hot chocolate.

There was one day we couldn’t kayak due to poor conditions, but it turned out to be magnificent. We sailed the shore, enjoying the beautiful surroundings. At Elephant Point, we witnessed roaring elephant seals fighting for territory and saw Gentoo penguins nesting with Chilean Skua birds trying to steal their eggs. The last zodiac to leave, we felt a true sense of remoteness.

That afternoon, we landed at Whalers Bay on Deception Island. The abandoned relics and the harsh weather made us feel alive. One morning, thick ice prevented us from landing, but we watched the captain expertly carve the ship through the ice.

Camping on the ice seemed magical, but many passengers changed their minds, preferring the comfort of the ship. I missed out on selection by one person, but the experience was cancelled due to heavy snowfall. Some passengers were relieved to stay cozy on the ship.

The night of the polar plunge brought everyone together. As the inaugural plunger, I led 64 fellow passengers into the freezing ocean. The bar buzzed with excitement as everyone relived their plunge moment.

The two-day return sailing felt like the busiest time. I didn’t want to miss anything—the lectures, exercise history sessions, kayaking meetings, and meals. The last night on the Greg Mortimer was excellent, with a recap of our adventures, a slideshow of photos, speeches from the leaders, and memories from fellow passengers. We finished with a party and dancing.

On the last morning, we said our goodbyes with great sadness. At the Ushuaia shore, many of us caught up with family and posted pictures using the free Wi-Fi. I explored a bit more before returning, bumping into familiar faces for more goodbyes. A small group took a coach to the airport for our flight to Buenos Aires. I had a few days in BA to explore, including a visit to the Antarctic museum ship recommended by Ben.

This journey will always be one of my travel highlights. Thank you to all the Aurora staff and crew for allowing me into your magical world!